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10/26/2010

The exhibition for the ABRAHAM with the Monsieur Swiss Silk King Gustav Zumsteg's an aesthetic senses, It's the"soiepirate"

The exhibition which I waited for began.
It is a soiepirate exhibition of the National Gallery of Zurich.

It is the exhibition of many splendid archive collection that noble company ABRAHAM left of silk print.
The total picture of his splendid work after Gustav Zumsteg purchases this company in '68 is seen in particular.
Zurich of old days was an excellent production center of the silk which competed with Como district of neighboring Italy more than 100 years.
The Gustav died two years ago, too.
Though he made an opportunity he met, and to do it during the lifetime, I was distracted by business and looked forward to this exhibition even more because it was not possible to meet at last.
As for me, there was an opportunity it was informed a friend, and to visit the treasure house of these treasures, the archive room,once after a company was closed.
I remembered it clearly, but it was still a home of the elegance that there overflowed.
Collections of documents of a splendid textile and the print of the hand dyeing of the 18th century when them gathered you their form a line,
It was the room where the scrapbooks of the print of ABRAHAM which did not lose in them formed a line orderly.
At first,the room was provided till my that memory revived from the first exhibition room.
I was similar till excitement and impressions overflowed and did not suffer in so much time.
The restaurant for chosen people from the whole world & this town,we can be seeing reproduction one room of Kronenhalle that his mother began in the '20s that was most snobbish restaurant in Zurich .
The next room of space where there harks back to then so much prosperity.
After, the rush of the great archives of ABRAHAM.
The group works to establish their couturier to use them at the time.
Worked with the greatest couturiers,C.Balenciaga, Lanvin, C.Dior, YSL., Valentino, J.Fath,C.Lacroix, Bill Blass, James Galanos ,Geoffrey Beene,and so on.
Also,CdG was & Diane P. ,when she was real designer in N.Y.

Yes, this exhibition of my eyes, "What this means elegance?", Respectively.
I learned a lot of things in this exhibition it was.
Also,the elegance of this well or was it something that is lived at that time varies depending on age and women.
As a result, companies have a noble dignity silk print high aesthetics, ABRAHAM could have come to understand the cause of closing that glorious gate in '96.

The present age "what this means elegance?", The things that had to be completely change in quality,so quick.
In the modern luxury was not born on the real character and dignity, It's only a virtual image of vanity was put on the consuming society.
It 's the only gold-plated elegance!.

And,at the end corner there was an exhibition of student works was very disappointing.
That's extra too bad taste for me,so sorry.
To face such that it exhibits the elegance, which I have rather a lot of pictures made at the golden time of their couturier?
Maybe this is the essence of the museum curator, was not out of this ABRAHAM understand and sour herring?
Or,did not understand the elegance out of herself?
Or, that's only rip-service?

However,this exhibition of ABRAHAM is imbued with elegance at the time of bursting & full of the Monsieur Swiss Silk King Gustav Zumsteg's an aesthetic senses for his great mother,Madame Hulda & her noble restraint
Kronenhalle.

Thank you very much for great your aesthetic senses the Monsieur Gustav Zumsteg.

21 Oct.'10 in Zurich.
TAKE.Hirakawa:
******

10/09/2010

Comme des Garcons Pinky Robe, knocked down for 8,500 euros!!

The Comme des Garcons Pinky Robe, knocked down for 8,500 euros.

As for the auction performed in the collection season of this town, many Yohji and Comme des Garcons were exhibited.
It was exhibited elsewhere by Alaia,Balenciaga,Jean-Paul Gaultie, Christian Louboutin,Maison Martin Margiela,Y.S.L.and UNDR COVE, it, too.

This auction took about 5 hours with quantity to amount to 500 pieces more, and it was performed.
There was around 30~40 participants in an auction place on this day.
And five phone lines were prepared for.

That value in the Comme des Garcons was high was proved at this auction that many Japanese designers,
Yohji and Comme des Garcons were over.

It began, and a big wave came in around 10 minutes.
A Pinky robe taken for collection two years ago when I still remembered it,
that was made a bid for 8,500 euros.

In addition, the value of a new fashion was born in this auction house.

The big wave happened in nothing for the later around 4 hours.

It is said that the master of this successful bidder who competed on the telephone is
one of an American art museum.

The successful bid price of Yohji was 2,000 euros from an average of 200 euros.
And, as for the thing of the foreign designer, they were knocked down with a market from 200 euros to 500 euros .
The later CdG had ended at a total market successful bid price from 500 euros to 1,500 euros ended.

MODE NIPPONNE by ARTCURIAL.
Lundi 4 October '10 a 14h~
PARIS=hotel DROUOT-salle7
9 rue Drouot Paris:

10/03/2010

COMME des GARCONS とDIANE ARBUSそして、LISETTE MODEL: 激しく生きた二人の女性写真家たち。 2011春夏パリコレクションから;

It was so sorry, I'm trying to translate English now.

 『 今シーズンの巴里のコレクションはビジネス状況とその世界が生んだヴァニティな環境によって閉塞感が大きく感じられる。
そんな中でのこのブランドのコレクション論理は正論であり的を得た手法である。
 今シーズンは、より激しく、何ものにも囚われない自己を中心とした自由と端正と厳格の日常性が生んだ強い美が感じられたコレクションだった。

 COMME des GARCONSブランドのコレクションはこの街の、この時期に見ると変わらずの異端と異形を放つ。
この”異端さと異形さ”。これが強く、大きければ大きい程にこの街へ来る
それなりのジャーナリストやメディアに強く評価される。
その答えはこの街が培い、維持して来た生活の中の美しさと精神のバランスである
”ELEGANCE”というボキャブラリィーとの対峙作用が評論の論格となるからである。

 ”前衛”/”Avant-garde"とは何か?
このコレクションを見て改めて、疑問に想い考え始めた。

 ”異端と異形”がそれを生む一つである事には変わりがない。
しかし、それだけでは”前衛”/”Avant-garde”ではない。
そこには、何か未来を彷彿させ、訴える新しさのコンテンツと激しい心意気と悶えが在るはずだ。
若輩者たちは自分たちの時代観からそのコンテンツに共感し、
その激しさと悶えを感じ取り自分たちも其処へ委ねる影響や新たな道筋を求め,
彼らたちが迎え来る時代の新しさへと通じる。
これが僕には余り強く感じられなかった。

しかし、”前衛”/”Avant-garde"も現代のような
PCをメディア生活と造形の基盤とした時代性を背景に変質してしまったようだ。
総てが”バーチャルな世界観へと”。
 
 最近のこのCOMME des GARCONSブランドのショーを見ていると
このデザイナーしか発せられない創造のボキャブラリィーとしての
見事で厳格な『”前衛”/”Avant-garde"のアイロニィー』としか読めない。
しかし、それは変わらず、誰よりも強く美しい。
失礼だが、このデザイナーの年齢を感じさせない総てが存在している。
これだけでも賛辞を贈る。
そして、このデザイナーとブランドチームが持ち得た総てを使っての
創造力と集中力には恐怖さえ感じる。
過去の自身の作品のアーカイブの再構築化と
そこらから儲けた資金力のパワーの使い方である。
しかし、残念乍ら、ここには明日を訴えるボキャブラリィーは聞き取れ難かった。

 ショーの最後で種明かしが為されてしまったと感じた。
僕の好きな写真家,Lisette ModelとDiane Arbusを見てしまった。
’40年代を代表する二人のユダヤ系アメリカ人女性写真家である。
最後にはダイアンの代表作品集"An Perture Monograph"を感じたのだ。
Diane Arbusが影響を受けた写真家がA.ザンダーであり、Lisette Modelである。

 ここ迄読むと、昨年,2月迄、
ミラノの10コルソコモのギャラリィーで開催された写真展『Lisette Model and Her Successors』
そして、去年の秋から今年はじめ迄この街、
巴里のjeu-de-paume写真美術館で行なわれた『Lisette Model回顧展』

 この激しく自分の世界観時代を逆風として、
正直に強く生き抜いた二人のユダヤ人写真家たちの
いぶし銀の様な存在感と生き様に共感してのコレクションだったのであろう。

 ここに決して、"VANITY"に溺れない川久保玲の真の姿を見た。

ありがとうございました。』
文責/平川武治:

リセットモデル/
http://www.artphoto-site.com/story77.html
http://fashionjp.net/wnext/milan/mln00027.html
 リセットモデルとその後継者たち展/「Lisette Model and Her Successors」
http://www.americansuburbx.com/2010/08/lisette-model-biography-jeu-de-paume-63.html
 巴里、jeu-de-paumeの展覧会

ダイアン アーヴァス/
http://www.artphoto-site.com/story77.html
http://www.metmuseum.org/special/se_event.asp?OccurrenceId=%7BE9C11548-26E7-431C-9F83-03E1EBC758CD%7D
N.Y.メトロポリタン美術館で開催された展覧会。/3~5月 '05/"Revelations"

10/01/2010

The Requiem. It was so cool DVD -Nemeth 2

The Requiem. It was so cool DVD -Nemeth 1




" As for his great achievement, an underground performance and a mode and the fusion of the street were very grand.
It is a very disappointing thing that fashion people do not recognize the great achievement. " by Jun TAKAHASHI/UNDER COVER:

『 彼の偉業はアンダーグラウンドとモード、そしてストリートの融合、とても偉大でした。
その偉業をファッションピープルが認識していないのはとても残念な事です。 』  高橋盾/UNDERCOVER